Zamena Alu elise čeličnom

[mossi]

Baka extra predlog!

Ima li ko elisu na probu za F25 čelik 10 x10 ?

..

..

Nema ?!

cc

i šta sad.. 

Pa ne živim ja u USA da odem u hebenu radnju i probam 10 elisa i kupim onu koja mi odgovara.
Nego na hebenom Balkanu gde i sama pomisao da hoću da testiram elise prodavca dovodi do očaja i podizanja tlaka!

A onda se ja iznerviram i naručim elisu, posle skoro 10 godina drndanja po čamcu, ako promašim, a teško da ću kupiti lošiju od ove koju imam.
Prodaću je i na njoj izgubiti 20-50 eura. Nije smak sveta.

Tema je pokrenuta jer verovatno i drugi imaju slične probleme: teži čamac, slabiji motor.
Veruj mi da bih ja najviše voleo da poslušam RJ-a i ako sam to i sam smislio, i otišao u radnju i kupio nov etec 40hp po mogućnosti onaj za vojsku. 

[mossi]

E da, ne znam ko je Sloba .. neke teme jednostavno ne čitam više na varaličaru.
Dok ne postanem LSI (koji je doduše pazario lep čamac, ali slab motor..  ) dotle sam samo jedinstveni mossi.   

[mossi]

Dobar tekst pa ću ga preneti u potpunosti, a odnosi se na uštedu goriva što je moj prevashodni cilj:

How To Save Fuel In Your Boat – Boating Fuel Efficiency Tips
Posted on October 21, 2011 by Manitou Pontoon Boats   

The days of dollar per gallon gasoline seem like little more than a distant memory these days. This isn’t lost to us (we think about more than just making awesome pontoon boats, y’know…). So with that in mind we compiled some of our own fuel saving tips and also asked some other prominent boaters.

high gas prices
From Chuck Fort at BoatUS

    Lightening the load is one of easiest no-cost things to save on gas. Boats tend to collect stuff over the years; clear out all of the junk that’s been stored that you no longer need. Don’t top off fresh water tanks, just keep enough for the day – water weighs eight pounds per gallon, which can really add up.  Also, keep your fuel tank between 1/4 to 1/2 full.  If, for example, you have a 135 gallon gas tank, keeping only 50 or 60 gallons in the tank can make you lighter by about 500 lbs (gas weighs about seven pounds per gallon).
    Get a tune-up. An annual tune-up is a must if you’re truly serious about saving gas.  Make sure your engine air intakes are not restricted – you will burn fuel less efficiently if they are.
    Check the prop. A dinged and bent prop can rob you of 10% of your fuel costs. Prop shops can use a machine to tell how far out of specification your prop might be and repair it like new. They can also advise as to whether you might need a prop of a different diameter or pitch for best efficiency.
    Paint the bottom. For boats docked in salt or brackish water, keeping the fuel-robbing “green gunk” growth from adhering to your boat’s hull can save a lot of fuel.
    Check the trim tabs. Unbalanced boats chew up the gas. Ensure that trim tabs function properly and make sure you know how to use them.
    Avoid excessive idling and warm ups at the dock.
    Finally, check out some locations that are nearer to you – you might find a hidden gem and save fuel to boot.

From our own staff here at Manitou

    Make sure that your hull does not have growth (barnacles, algae, etc.) and is clean to ensure maximum speed and efficiency.
    Follow the procedures on maintenance from the engine manufacturer for your outboard engine.
    Decide what speed you would like to average most of the time and go with an engine that is larger than what you require. Running a 200 Hp engine at half throttle will be more fuel efficient than a 115 or a 150 that is running at maximum speed and RPMs.
    Correct prop selection is key. A bad match up for specific boat and engine combination will destroy efficiency.
    Prop condition, keep in as new condition. Damaged prop blades will negatively impact efficiency.
    Every boat/engine combination has an optimum cruise speed. When traveling distances using the optimum cruise speed will ensure the best fuel economy. Boats equipped with ICON, Smartcraft or other digital set-ups can utilize these systems to optimize fuel consumption. This data can also be obtained through performance reports done by engine companies.

From Bryan Hermann (Manitou customer)

    Weight Distribution. Try to keep the bow of the boat light. Store anchors, tools and spare props towards the rear of the boat, life jackets, towels and dock ropes towards the front. A bow heavy boat will push more water, causing excessive fuel usage. Loading like this will keep your bow high and dry.
    Prop for economy. The use of a 4 blade prop or a “Round Ear” 3 blade will diminish prop slip. The better the bite, the better the fuel economy. Bigger diameter, less pitch will also create less slip.
    Document Trips. Use a GPS and track your miles traveled, compare that to gallons of fuel used. You can track your economy for different driving habits. Once you figure out where your best economy range is. You can stick to that RPM range and trim setting.
    Drop your top! When your bimini top is up, even in the bimini cover, its like a parachute catching wind.  Put your top down low, in the “Trailering” position. If you normally run with the top completely up, on nice days when the sun is not partially out.  Go ahead and take it down. You wouldn’t believe the fuel savings, just by going topless.

Have any more gas saving tips? Let us know in the comments section below.
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2 thoughts on “How To Save Fuel In Your Boat – Boating Fuel Efficiency Tips”

    Robert says:   
    February 1, 2015 at 8:22 pm

    I have recently changed props on my Ranger 188 with a 175 Yamaha VMAX HPDI. The boat came with a 23M X 14.5 diameter series yamaha prop. RPM were 5400 to 5500 in the winter. This year Mercury came out with a 22 pitch Tempest Plus in a 14 5/8 diameter. RPMs went up to 5800 and my speed is only 0.5 mph less than the 23 pitch 63.1 @ 5800. Hole shot is in three seconds flat and the fuel econmomy is tremendous. The combination of less pitch and a little smaller diameter is the ticket. Interestingly enough the full rpm on the engine is 45-5500 but the rev limiter does not go off until 6200. At 5800 rpms this motor is breathing so much better. It sounds like a different engine. I think the bassboat community is not very cognizant of the effect of lugging an engine and therefore have a higher percentage of blown powerheads.

[rj]

šta da ti kažem ??
tvoje pare ...tvoj reskir ....
probaj....
jedno je 100% tačno ....
POVEČANJEM OBRTAJA POVEČAVAŠ POTROŠNJU 

[mossi]

OK.. ako pazarim delim iskustvo 100% 

Nego, uvoz iz USA u iznosu od 250-300e koliko vas država oglobi za takvo zadovoljstvo?
To nije uvoz iz EU. 

Eventualno da iskopam nešto povoljno iz EU pa pošaljem na nekog u HR?!
To bi trebalo biti bez carine i pdva? 

[maverick]

Da , najbolje da kopaš po EU...onda pošalješ nama...i to su ti svi troškovi....Dalje...s tim istim motorom i šharkom imao sam spojeno s elisom 9.9 x10....i jurio sam bas fino....najbolja elisa koja je meni odgovarala je bila 9.9 x10.5....kao i sad sto bi mi odgovarala 9,8x12,5 za tošu...ali nikako da za koji km i pola litra da neke velike novce....Plus sto inox za nase podneblj nije idelano riješenje....plutajuce objekte na puno voznje jednostavno ne mozes izbjeci ako se vozis stalno....a puno jači prenos udarca na osovinu je sa inoxom nego s aluminijem koji se mota momentalno...Tako da vjerojtnost za neko ozbiljnije oštećenje same pete ili radilice je povećano nekoliko puta....i ovo je bitan element pri odlučivanju...

[mossi]

Inox ili Aluminijum obe imaju onaj gumeni uložak, on je spona izmedju dva metala i on mora da pukne/odlepi to mu je svrha.
Aluminijumska elisa se smota i pocepa, inox pukne kao staklo, otpadne komad.
Inox se u principu može bolje i kvalitetnije reparirati.
Ono što na grani ili panju zvekne u alu, to inox iseče kao seckalica.

Drago mi je čuti da ti je odgovarala 9.9x10.5 zato i mislim da bi mi ona devetka u inox sa 4 kraka bila 

Kad se odlučim i namontiram .. biće testiranje.

A i kad sledeći put odem do Batine ima da uradim onaj test pod opterećenjem. 

[baka]

Baka extra predlog!

Ima li ko elisu na probu za F25 čelik 10 x10 ?

..

..

Nema ?!

cc

i šta sad.. 

Pa ne živim ja u USA da odem u hebenu radnju i probam 10 elisa i kupim onu koja mi odgovara.
Nego na hebenom Balkanu gde i sama pomisao da hoću da testiram elise prodavca dovodi do očaja i podizanja tlaka!

A onda se ja iznerviram i naručim elisu, posle skoro 10 godina drndanja po čamcu, ako promašim, a teško da ću kupiti lošiju od ove koju imam.
Prodaću je i na njoj izgubiti 20-50 eura. Nije smak sveta.

Tema je pokrenuta jer verovatno i drugi imaju slične probleme: teži čamac, slabiji motor.
Veruj mi da bih ja najviše voleo da poslušam RJ-a i ako sam to i sam smislio, i otišao u radnju i kupio nov etec 40hp po mogućnosti onaj za vojsku. 

Nisam mislio pametovati, ali mi bilo dosadno jer me ubila kiša danas ovdje na moru, a ni upecat ne mogu ništa 

Hoću reći samo da nikakvi proračuni ne vrijede i nitko ti ih ne može, tj. može ih izračunati uzimajući u obzir sve parametre određenog čamca, ali nitko živ ti ne može garantirati da će to tako funkcionirati u praksi i da ćeš imati bolje performanse, ili barem performanse koje ti očekuješ.
Jako teško je to napraviti, da ne kažem nemoguće, pogotovo za male motore (što 25KS u tim okvirima sigurno i je) i pogotovo za čamce koji nisu serijska proizvodnja.
Puno je tu nepoznanica i jedini način kako se može doći do zadovoljavajućeg rezultata je sistem eliminacije isprobavanjem, normalno ako imaš mogućnosti.

[Zagor]

Na Korčuli sam se družio s likom sta je radio u brodogradilištu Greben. Oni su radili remonte brodova i kocarica i najviše problema su imali sa elisama. Zali su 4-5 promijeniti dok nisu potrefili da valja iako su imali inženjere koji su radili proračune.

[mossi]

Baka, Zagore komplikovanost i zahtevnost uparivanja elise izmedju korita i motora je razlog pokretanja teme.
Samim tim možemo jedan drugome pomoći iskustvom ili nekom pametnom idejom.

Evo kolega je naručio ISTI pich za Tohatsu 20hp 4 takta ali ne original nego Solas Amita 3 11 picha i elisa je sporija nego original.
Ulazi mu u crveni i aktivira blokadu .. ali samo u punom gasu i to za možda 100 obrtaja.

Poenta isti pich, različiti model i eto promašaja. 

To ne treba da nas odgovori nego motiviše na diskutovanje u temi.

Lakše je nekad platiti nego ići okolo i tražiti "odgovarajuću" elisu (meni).
Da živim u velikom gradu sa 10 marina, to bi još bilo moguće,
u Apatinu i okolini ima 3-4 F25 i to sve manje više imaju iste elise ( 3 standard i jedna brža ) ja zagledao 

[maverick]

http://www.propelo.hr/index.html

Moze i opcija da kupis neku polovnu pa ti preprave na zeljenu dimenziju

[maverick]

Mossi jos jedan zanimljiv test..

http://www.popularmechanics.com/adventure/outdoors/a5650/1276976/

mossi, a pročitao kao i mnoge druge .. 

[maverick]

Peti naslov pa kliknete prevedi za one koji muku muče s engleskim

https://www.google.hr/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=making+propeller+for+boat+for+race

[šajzika]

@mossi
Jesi na kraju pazario drugu elisu?

[mossi]

Uzeo sam Yamahinu alu 10x10 1/2 polovnu u stanju 8/10.
Ona taman tera u 5500 obrtaja, na brzini nisam dobio ništa.. samo malo veća potrošnja.
Ali to su mi već i RJ i Maverick rekli na početku .. 

Još jedan od experimenata koji nije prošao najbolje iz više mogućih razloga:

- stanje elise
- stanje samog čamca tj korita koje je 2.5 godina u vodi... 

E sad.. odvojio sam neke nevce za čamac/kajak za ovu sezonu .. problem je što je jako teško sve uklopiti u ne tako malu sumu.. 2000e 

Još nisam složio ni prioritete, a pola godine je zveknilo.

Što se elise od čelika/prohroma tiče i dalje smatram da to još treba da probam ..